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Quaker Parrots Forum > For Quaker Parrots Only > Quaker Parrot Behavior
EveWasFramed
I was thinking that the best way for me to handle my nippy Quakers with some confidence would be to wear some type of bite-proof glove. I know I need to handle them a lot right now so that we can build some trust and get used to each other again, but I got bitten VERY hard yesterday and I just don't think I can take that kind of abuse constantly! sad.gif

Of course, the glove would have to be something that is fitted well to my hand so that the birds wouldn't be afraid of it.

Has anyone done anything like this in the past? If so, any suggestions on what I can use? A google search isn't showing me anything that seems like it would work.
Carrie~Anne
I'm afraid I don't agree with using gloves to assist in taming down a bird. I just feel that it defeats the purpose as one of the main issues with biting birds is fear of hands.

Have you tried using a perch to assist in training? I've often used those wooden ladders. They work great (and are cheap) because you can hold them vertically and the bird *usually* won't climb down them to get at your hands.

Also, here is a link to another great idea: Click~Here

Dee, and I believe UZ, have both used this for their birds and had great success with it.
Andie's Mom
I too don't like the idea of using a glove. In my opinion, yes it's protecting you from the bite, but it does nothing to get the bird used to your hand...because once they get used to the glove, and you want to eventually get them used to your bare hand, you've got to go through the same process.

Its my opinion that if you learn to push into the bite, and not jerk back the bite hurts much less and it also keeps them from biting so hard as it causes them to become unbalanced and they have to concentrate on hanging on with their feet and not biting.

I myself have been bitten by some pretty ornery Quakers and have shed blood quite often, but once they realize that you aren't going to stop making them do what you want them to do, and there is consequence for them biting they will stop...Plus once they build trust in you they are much less apt to bite.

That little perch gadget looks like it might work pretty well that Carrie Anne showed you. but you may be able to accomplish the same thing by just cutting a circle out of a milk jug or the bottom of a cottage cheese carton or butter/margine dish. and then cutting another hole the same size as a dowel and sliding it over it. I know some people that for their big birds will actually cut the top off a gallon milk jug and run the dowel down through the spout and duct tape in on to the dowel and they you have a real good shield for your hand. But I'm afraid that big of thing would only scare your quaker more.

Once you get your bird to step up on your hand you can do what we call an earthquake which is a quick short drop of your hand that the bird is sitting on if he start to bite...and use the command, NO BITING. again it causes them to lose their balance and need to concentrate on holding on with their feet instead. Be sure not to do it so hard that they fall from your hand...but just enough for them to realize that what they are trying to do isn't acceptable behavior.

Hope this gives you some ideas...good luck
Carrie~Anne
QUOTE (Andie's Mom @ Jun 17 2007, 09:57 PM) *
That little perch gadget looks like it might work pretty well that Carrie Anne showed you. but you may be able to accomplish the same thing by just cutting a circle out of a milk jug or the bottom of a cottage cheese carton or butter/margine dish. and then cutting another hole the same size as a dowel and sliding it over it. I know some people that for their big birds will actually cut the top off a gallon milk jug and run the dowel down through the spout and duct tape in on to the dowel and they you have a real good shield for your hand. But I'm afraid that big of thing would only scare your quaker more.


Now there is a cool idea!!
andysmom
We had many problems with Andy biting my husband. Crazy as it sounds, Andy stopped biting because my husband started to do a whispering sound. It seems to calm Andy and we have tried it with other people and it works for them as well. He started whispering sounds and just standing close to him and then after a few day he was able to pet him.
The key is not to show fear of the bird otherwise they think that they are in control. Keep trying even after they bite.
Good luck!
EveWasFramed
Thanks for the suggestions everyone. I have to say, I really don't think my birds are afraid of my hands. They'll go to the doors of their cages and say "step up" if they want to come out. They bite for control. If I try to move them off of their cage, or off of the floor, or wherever and they don't want to go that's when the biting comes in.

I just can't let them bite me. I'm an esthetician and I work with people's skin. My hands are in and out of water and product all day long. I can't risk getting an infection because my hands are covered in cuts. I already have a nasty one with a bruise on my knuckle from trying to get Sailor back into her cage the other day when she wanted to stay out.
Jamie
QUOTE (EveWasFramed @ Jun 18 2007, 10:14 AM) *
Thanks for the suggestions everyone. I have to say, I really don't think my birds are afraid of my hands. They'll go to the doors of their cages and say "step up" if they want to come out. They bite for control. If I try to move them off of their cage, or off of the floor, or wherever and they don't want to go that's when the biting comes in.

I just can't let them bite me. I'm an esthetician and I work with people's skin. My hands are in and out of water and product all day long. I can't risk getting an infection because my hands are covered in cuts. I already have a nasty one with a bruise on my knuckle from trying to get Sailor back into her cage the other day when she wanted to stay out.



Hrm... well if it only happens when you're trying to move them from one place to another you could use the buddy perch as a transporter. Like Carrie~Anne said, Dee has a buddy perch for her rescued african grey Perky and apparently it's worked wonders to keep Perk from biting people. Nothing to stop you from using a buddy perch to pick up from the cage or the playstand or the floor and only allowing hand step ups from the buddy perch when your Quaker is in a good mood smile.gif
gu1tarjohn
I also agree that gloves are bad. I've never came accross a bird that wasn't more scared of gloves than of a plain hand. Fear won't build trust.
Tara Rose
I have to say I agree. Trust me..I know how much it sucks to get bit and bit and bit. I have a snotty little bluefront amazon who ripped me apart when I first got her, and it was NOT fun. But once she learned that biting was NOT the way to get what she wants, she pretty much gave up. She still bites occasionally, but that's a whole different show rolleyes.gif

I think it will also help if you get your quaker away from his cage when you are working with him. If he cant see his cage, he will be less likely to bite out of protection for 'his space.' Another thing to keep in mind is the tone of voice you use to correct your bird..make sure when you tell him 'NO BITING' you use a low, growly voice and you are not yelling. They are little drama queens, and as Connie said any kind of yelling or crying out will only encourage the behavior. I know it sucks to keep getting bit, but if you stick with it I think you will get some good results sooner rather than later.

Good luck wink.gif
Meepers
QUOTE (EveWasFramed @ Jun 18 2007, 12:14 PM) *
Thanks for the suggestions everyone. I have to say, I really don't think my birds are afraid of my hands. They'll go to the doors of their cages and say "step up" if they want to come out. They bite for control. If I try to move them off of their cage, or off of the floor, or wherever and they don't want to go that's when the biting comes in.

I just can't let them bite me. I'm an esthetician and I work with people's skin. My hands are in and out of water and product all day long. I can't risk getting an infection because my hands are covered in cuts. I already have a nasty one with a bruise on my knuckle from trying to get Sailor back into her cage the other day when she wanted to stay out.


That explains a lot then. Just remember whenever you stick your hands in a bird's cage, you are invading their established territory. Birds don't see a cage as being locked up- they see it as like their own personal bedroom. Birds LOVE having their own space!

Now as for putting the bird back and not risk getting bitten, I would use a towel if it gets fussy. The bird doesn't associate your hands to a towel as they would when you wear gloves because of the form. My friend who also has a Quaker and 15 other exotic birds uses towels to take them back to cages whenever they get fussy and doesn't have problems with them afterwards. But yes... birds are incredibly smart and they will remember the fear you display since Day 1 (try working with a vulture that swoops or flaps around you. now THAT is scary ohmy.gif ).
Lene
QUOTE (Meepers @ Jun 25 2007, 07:11 PM) *
try working with a vulture that swoops or flaps around you. now THAT is scary ohmy.gif ).


Only if you're dead, right?
gu1tarjohn
Speaking of putting your hands inside the cage, I have read that QPs think of certain parts of their cage like we think of certain parts of our homes. Where they sleep is the "bedroom", and you should not put your hand into that area. The center area of the cage in front of the door is usually the "living room", and is much less threatening to the bird for you to put your hand into. This holds true for our QP. We never reach into his "bedroom" to pick him up, we just put a hand in the "living room" and if he wants to be held, he comes over and steps up. smile.gif
Gizmo #1
QUOTE (Carrie~Anne @ Jun 18 2007, 12:13 AM) *
I'm afraid I don't agree with using gloves to assist in taming down a bird. I just feel that it defeats the purpose as one of the main issues with biting birds is fear of hands.

Have you tried using a perch to assist in training? I've often used those wooden ladders. They work great (and are cheap) because you can hold them vertically and the bird *usually* won't climb down them to get at your hands.

Also, here is a link to another great idea: Click~Here

Dee, and I believe UZ, have both used this for their birds and had great success with it.

Yah they are scared of hands. Gizmo will not bite but he only steps up on my arm.
snugglbutt
I have an umbrella cockatoo that can get pretty aggressive when it comes time for him to go back to his cage. Think a qp bite is bad? LOL...Try a ticked off cockatoo. blink.gif What I do with him is I keep a large perch for him to step up onto. When I'm asking him to do something I know he doesn't want to do (example, go back to his cage, stop chasing the dog, etc), I use "the stick". He can vent his frustration on the stick all he wants, and I don't get hurt and he STILL has to do as I ask him. If he refuses to step up onto the stick (which hasn't happened in a LONG time), I bring in the towel.
Gizmo #1
QUOTE (snugglbutt @ Jun 26 2007, 03:48 PM) *
I have an umbrella cockatoo that can get pretty aggressive when it comes time for him to go back to his cage. Think a qp bite is bad? LOL...Try a ticked off cockatoo. blink.gif What I do with him is I keep a large perch for him to step up onto. When I'm asking him to do something I know he doesn't want to do (example, go back to his cage, stop chasing the dog, etc), I use "the stick". He can vent his frustration on the stick all he wants, and I don't get hurt and he STILL has to do as I ask him. If he refuses to step up onto the stick (which hasn't happened in a LONG time), I bring in the towel.

I know what your talking about but there talkng quakers. You definitely have to have gloves with an untame big bird. Not saying jojo is untame, but one bite and your out.
snugglbutt
QUOTE (Gizmo #1 @ Jun 26 2007, 02:54 PM) *
I know what your talking about but there talkng quakers. You definitely have to have gloves with an untame big bird. Not saying jojo is untame, but one bite and your out.



I disagree with the use of gloves for handling birds other than predator type birds (hawks, falcons, owls, etc). Wearing gloves does not hand tame a bird, and in most cases the gloves only frighten them more. Hand taming a large parrot isn't THAT much different than hand taming a small parrot. Being bitten pretty much comes with the territory, and stick training is a definite plus whether dealing with a small parrot or a large parrot.

I recommend stick training a bird, no matter the size of the bird. To me it sounds like she's dealing with more of a cage aggression/attitude problem instead of a fear of hands. In this case, stick training can definitely give her a great tool and save her hands at the same time.
Animal Quackers
Can I take this a step farther?

I have a beautiful Indian Ringneck I am fostering who is FINE on a stick and FINE on my shoulder but BITES BITES BITES fingers and hands.

How do I move from getting him to step up and perch on the stick to stepping up to perch on my hand with the least possible blood loss?
Gizmo #1
Try shaping it like fingers. She draws blood? Does she bite everytime. Im not much experienced with biting birds i will know more when any of myy birds bite.[hopefully never]
ReneeNoelle
All I can add to this is... gee, guess I'm not the only one. huh.gif I have scabs on my knuckles. One heals only to get another. The little booger!
Gizmo #1
Gosh when Gizmo used to bite soft i thought he was being a bad boy. I guess Gizmo is a good boy after all.
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