Hi,
I have a 10mths african grey (congo) he is divine & loves other birds hence the reason I am getting a quaker... some have said that I should not but others have said just try them out. I obv will not leave them alone & together but will slowley introduce them - starting with a smaller cage. The Blue Quaker I am getting is 9weeks old or will be once I have got him - I am unsure as have never had a baby baby parrot/parakeet. he will be fully weaned but I am unsure how long he can be left on his own - what toys or bits &bobs I should put in his cage for now.....
Also I go to work & leave my grey for about 8hrs but he comes out every morning & evening before & afterwork then has has control over the whole flat. I am unsure if the quaker will b ok on his own fr such a long time - do u think I would be better getting a friend to look afterhim for a few more weeks etc etc until he has grown a little & got more feathers before being placed at mine..... also... how long do quakers take b4 they can fly... I am so worried as never had such a small chick b4.....
hope to hear from someone soon.
Regards
Emma
Full Version: Quaker V African Grey (congo)
Hihi Em,
Fancy meeting you here as well as on AnAG!
First things first, though. 9 weeks is, IMHO way too young to be getting any parrot! It is essential that a young birds spends time with it nestmates, peers and parents for it to learn that it IS a bird, and NOT a human being. Taking birds from their parents so young can cause psychological problems later in life. Ideally, you should wait until at least 16 weeks, if not 20. See if you can't get the breeder to keep the youngster for longer - please: it is so very important!
In principle, there shouldn't be any problem having a QP and a Grey together. My QP, Insect, gets on fine with my 6 Greys. Well, at least, he is quick enough to be able to get away from them! But you will have to keep a close eye on them.
You will need to introduce them very carefully! Sensei (that is the name of your Grey, isn't it) is a MUCH larger bird and he has already staked his claim of your home as his territory. A small, green intruder may be seen as something that needs to be 'disposed of'.
You must get as large a cage as you possibly can for your QP. Greys are much larger than QPs, but Greys climb more than they fly. QPs, being long-tailed parrots, are great fliers. We take Insect to Parrot Society meetings in a village hall in Shirebrook, not far from us, where he gets to fly around to his heart's content. The little hooligan is like a rocket! Flying really is important for their physical and psychological welfare, so make sure you get the largest cage possible!
As soon as you have the cage, put it, in the same room as your Grey's cage. Greys are notoriously averse to change in their environment, so the sooner you can get the empty cage in there, the better, so that he can get used to it. The cage needs to be at the opposite end of the room from your Grey's cage.
When you get your QP youngster, put it in the cage and let them both observe each other for a few days. It is important that you follow your normal routine with Sensei. Over the course of a few days, you can adapt it slowly to include more and more of your QP. During this time, it is very important that you make a little extra fuss of your Grey, so that he knows that he is not being sidelined. Greys are intelligent enough to behave like jealous kids!
Leave the cages as they are for a couple of weeks, before starting to move them gradually closer and closer - and I'm talking just a couple of feet per week, here. Eventually, you should have both cages next to each other - close, buut not so close that one can stick its beak through the bars and bite the feet of the other, which they will do, without fail!
Now leave them there for a couple more weeks. Observe them closely. If they perch and roost in their separate cages in such a way that they are sitting as close together as possible, then you have introduced them successfully and they have accepted each other. You can then try letting them out together - but have a towel handy so that you can break up any brawls that may occur, and remember that a Grey is SO much larger than a QP, so you must act QUICKLY!
If, on the other hand, they sit at opposite ends of their cages, trying to get as far as possible away from each other, then you will have to consider the fact that they will never get on, and you will need to modify their daily routines so that they both get quality out-of-cage time and time with you.
Working 8 hours a day is not a problem. As long as you have a daily routine and stick with it, they will be perfectly happy.
Hope that helps.
Fancy meeting you here as well as on AnAG!
First things first, though. 9 weeks is, IMHO way too young to be getting any parrot! It is essential that a young birds spends time with it nestmates, peers and parents for it to learn that it IS a bird, and NOT a human being. Taking birds from their parents so young can cause psychological problems later in life. Ideally, you should wait until at least 16 weeks, if not 20. See if you can't get the breeder to keep the youngster for longer - please: it is so very important!
In principle, there shouldn't be any problem having a QP and a Grey together. My QP, Insect, gets on fine with my 6 Greys. Well, at least, he is quick enough to be able to get away from them! But you will have to keep a close eye on them.
You will need to introduce them very carefully! Sensei (that is the name of your Grey, isn't it) is a MUCH larger bird and he has already staked his claim of your home as his territory. A small, green intruder may be seen as something that needs to be 'disposed of'.
You must get as large a cage as you possibly can for your QP. Greys are much larger than QPs, but Greys climb more than they fly. QPs, being long-tailed parrots, are great fliers. We take Insect to Parrot Society meetings in a village hall in Shirebrook, not far from us, where he gets to fly around to his heart's content. The little hooligan is like a rocket! Flying really is important for their physical and psychological welfare, so make sure you get the largest cage possible!
As soon as you have the cage, put it, in the same room as your Grey's cage. Greys are notoriously averse to change in their environment, so the sooner you can get the empty cage in there, the better, so that he can get used to it. The cage needs to be at the opposite end of the room from your Grey's cage.
When you get your QP youngster, put it in the cage and let them both observe each other for a few days. It is important that you follow your normal routine with Sensei. Over the course of a few days, you can adapt it slowly to include more and more of your QP. During this time, it is very important that you make a little extra fuss of your Grey, so that he knows that he is not being sidelined. Greys are intelligent enough to behave like jealous kids!
Leave the cages as they are for a couple of weeks, before starting to move them gradually closer and closer - and I'm talking just a couple of feet per week, here. Eventually, you should have both cages next to each other - close, buut not so close that one can stick its beak through the bars and bite the feet of the other, which they will do, without fail!
Now leave them there for a couple more weeks. Observe them closely. If they perch and roost in their separate cages in such a way that they are sitting as close together as possible, then you have introduced them successfully and they have accepted each other. You can then try letting them out together - but have a towel handy so that you can break up any brawls that may occur, and remember that a Grey is SO much larger than a QP, so you must act QUICKLY!
If, on the other hand, they sit at opposite ends of their cages, trying to get as far as possible away from each other, then you will have to consider the fact that they will never get on, and you will need to modify their daily routines so that they both get quality out-of-cage time and time with you.
Working 8 hours a day is not a problem. As long as you have a daily routine and stick with it, they will be perfectly happy.
Hope that helps.
Actually, it is quite possible that a Quaker can wean at 9 weeks of age. So long as they are eating on their own for a week, and not taking any formula, I don't see why you wouldn't take the bird home. Quakers are usually pulled from the nest for handfeeding between the ages of 10 and 21 days of age. Leaving them until they are 16 weeks with the parents is something that you would do for a much larger bird and even then, it's not normally done if you want a well socialized bird.
Your Quaker, at 9 weeks of age, will be flying already. He'll also be fully feathered and while a wee bit clumsy, he'll be just fine on his own for the day (so long as he is fully weaned). If you can, pick him up on a day where you'll have the next day or two off, this way you can observe him and see how he does
Personally, and this is my own opinion, I wouldn't take the chance of having a Quaker and a Grey interact, regardless of how well they get along. All it takes is one second and your Quaker is a gonner. Even in play, a Grey can do a lot of damage to a Quaker. And, those Quakers can do some good damage to a Grey as well. I'm not saying they can't be out at the same time, I would just never allow them to have contact with one another.
Your Quaker, at 9 weeks of age, will be flying already. He'll also be fully feathered and while a wee bit clumsy, he'll be just fine on his own for the day (so long as he is fully weaned). If you can, pick him up on a day where you'll have the next day or two off, this way you can observe him and see how he does
Personally, and this is my own opinion, I wouldn't take the chance of having a Quaker and a Grey interact, regardless of how well they get along. All it takes is one second and your Quaker is a gonner. Even in play, a Grey can do a lot of damage to a Quaker. And, those Quakers can do some good damage to a Grey as well. I'm not saying they can't be out at the same time, I would just never allow them to have contact with one another.
CQ has given you excellent advise...
Remember too that quakers are also quite territorial, and they also have "little bird syndrome" meaning they think they're tough as nails and may take on any size bird without forethought. While its most likely that they will get along well, you can't leave them unattended even if they are playing well together a play scuffle can ensue and the quaker could be injured or killed in the blink of an eye, They just are not as strong as they think they are. A quick tap on the head by a larger birds beak could be its demise.
Remember also that there should be a quarantine period for the new bird coming in. This sometimes helps with the current bird becoming aware that there are other birds or creatures in the house, because they can hear them chirping etc. But you also need to be sure that your First bird is kept as the First bird. Feeding it first, playing with it first, opening its cage first etc etc. This really helps to keep the jealousy issues to a minimum (hopefully)
When the other birds are aware that there's a newby in their space but they can't actually see it, I feel it does help to become aware and that nothing has really changed as far as their time with you etc. Then when you bring the other bird out as CQ suggests I think it helps with the transition because they can now see what is making the sounds that they've been hearing and as long as their routine still isn't drastically changed there should still not be a problem.
To Answer some of your questions about a 9 week old Quaker. At 9 weeks old it should be totally feathered. And if its allowed to fledge on its own which means to leave the nest and to take its first flight that can happen as young as 5 weeks of age give or take. If your wanting to allow the bird full flight you might talk with the breeder now and ask that they not clip wings. But keep in mind while its not a big deal to have one bird fully flighted having two birds fully flighted could be an issue, With them flying on top of the other birds cage and possibly getting toes bit. I'm not saying not to allow both birds full flight, I'm just saying that you have to be careful and watchful. A 9 week old quaker is as large as it will get body wise, their adult feathers may make them a little bit longer from head to tip of tail but not significantly, they usually go through their first molt from juvenile to adult plumage at about 4 months of age. And they are generally heavier right at the time of weaning than they will be as adults but not too much. It will be your job to introduce him to as many new things as possible especially food because they learn by example and that's where allowing them to be with their siblings a little longer comes into play as its a monkey see monkey do type thing.
Hope that answers some more of your questions
Remember too that quakers are also quite territorial, and they also have "little bird syndrome" meaning they think they're tough as nails and may take on any size bird without forethought. While its most likely that they will get along well, you can't leave them unattended even if they are playing well together a play scuffle can ensue and the quaker could be injured or killed in the blink of an eye, They just are not as strong as they think they are. A quick tap on the head by a larger birds beak could be its demise.
Remember also that there should be a quarantine period for the new bird coming in. This sometimes helps with the current bird becoming aware that there are other birds or creatures in the house, because they can hear them chirping etc. But you also need to be sure that your First bird is kept as the First bird. Feeding it first, playing with it first, opening its cage first etc etc. This really helps to keep the jealousy issues to a minimum (hopefully)
When the other birds are aware that there's a newby in their space but they can't actually see it, I feel it does help to become aware and that nothing has really changed as far as their time with you etc. Then when you bring the other bird out as CQ suggests I think it helps with the transition because they can now see what is making the sounds that they've been hearing and as long as their routine still isn't drastically changed there should still not be a problem.
To Answer some of your questions about a 9 week old Quaker. At 9 weeks old it should be totally feathered. And if its allowed to fledge on its own which means to leave the nest and to take its first flight that can happen as young as 5 weeks of age give or take. If your wanting to allow the bird full flight you might talk with the breeder now and ask that they not clip wings. But keep in mind while its not a big deal to have one bird fully flighted having two birds fully flighted could be an issue, With them flying on top of the other birds cage and possibly getting toes bit. I'm not saying not to allow both birds full flight, I'm just saying that you have to be careful and watchful. A 9 week old quaker is as large as it will get body wise, their adult feathers may make them a little bit longer from head to tip of tail but not significantly, they usually go through their first molt from juvenile to adult plumage at about 4 months of age. And they are generally heavier right at the time of weaning than they will be as adults but not too much. It will be your job to introduce him to as many new things as possible especially food because they learn by example and that's where allowing them to be with their siblings a little longer comes into play as its a monkey see monkey do type thing.
Hope that answers some more of your questions
QUOTE (Carrie~Anne @ Aug 18 2008, 08:19 PM) 
Actually, it is quite possible that a Quaker can wean at 9 weeks of age.
I guess we'll just have to agree to disagree.
Weaning/fledging is not necessarily related to age .. Some quakers could wean/fledge at 9 weeks others like King Sméagol don't wean until 17 weeks ... 
The key is to find a breeder who abundance weans and will NOT sell unweaned babies.
I agree with Carrie~Anne 100% .... I have a grey and a quaker and they will never physically interact. Regardless of how fast my quaker is, my grey's beak is bigger and it only takes a second to cause severe injury or worse .. Not worth taking the chance.
My boys are out of their cages at the same time but never share their space and are always supervised.. They are both flighted and my grey is a perch potato so it is my quaker that I have to keep an eye on.
Good Luck with your new addition ...
The key is to find a breeder who abundance weans and will NOT sell unweaned babies.QUOTE (Carrie~Anne @ Aug 18 2008, 04:19 PM)
Personally, and this is my own opinion, I wouldn't take the chance of having a Quaker and a Grey interact, regardless of how well they get along. All it takes is one second and your Quaker is a gonner. Even in play, a Grey can do a lot of damage to a Quaker. And, those Quakers can do some good damage to a Grey as well. I'm not saying they can't be out at the same time, I would just never allow them to have contact with one another.
I agree with Carrie~Anne 100% .... I have a grey and a quaker and they will never physically interact. Regardless of how fast my quaker is, my grey's beak is bigger and it only takes a second to cause severe injury or worse .. Not worth taking the chance.
My boys are out of their cages at the same time but never share their space and are always supervised.. They are both flighted and my grey is a perch potato so it is my quaker that I have to keep an eye on.
Good Luck with your new addition ...
QUOTE (CaptainQuark @ Aug 18 2008, 01:35 PM)
Hihi Em,
Fancy meeting you here as well as on AnAG!
First things first, though. 9 weeks is, IMHO way too young to be getting any parrot! It is essential that a young birds spends time with it nestmates, peers and parents for it to learn that it IS a bird, and NOT a human being. Taking birds from their parents so young can cause psychological problems later in life. Ideally, you should wait until at least 16 weeks, if not 20. See if you can't get the breeder to keep the youngster for longer - please: it is so very important!
In principle, there shouldn't be any problem having a QP and a Grey together. My QP, Insect, gets on fine with my 6 Greys. Well, at least, he is quick enough to be able to get away from them! But you will have to keep a close eye on them.
You will need to introduce them very carefully! Sensei (that is the name of your Grey, isn't it) is a MUCH larger bird and he has already staked his claim of your home as his territory. A small, green intruder may be seen as something that needs to be 'disposed of'.
You must get as large a cage as you possibly can for your QP. Greys are much larger than QPs, but Greys climb more than they fly. QPs, being long-tailed parrots, are great fliers. We take Insect to Parrot Society meetings in a village hall in Shirebrook, not far from us, where he gets to fly around to his heart's content. The little hooligan is like a rocket! Flying really is important for their physical and psychological welfare, so make sure you get the largest cage possible!
As soon as you have the cage, put it, in the same room as your Grey's cage. Greys are notoriously averse to change in their environment, so the sooner you can get the empty cage in there, the better, so that he can get used to it. The cage needs to be at the opposite end of the room from your Grey's cage.
When you get your QP youngster, put it in the cage and let them both observe each other for a few days. It is important that you follow your normal routine with Sensei. Over the course of a few days, you can adapt it slowly to include more and more of your QP. During this time, it is very important that you make a little extra fuss of your Grey, so that he knows that he is not being sidelined. Greys are intelligent enough to behave like jealous kids!
Leave the cages as they are for a couple of weeks, before starting to move them gradually closer and closer - and I'm talking just a couple of feet per week, here. Eventually, you should have both cages next to each other - close, buut not so close that one can stick its beak through the bars and bite the feet of the other, which they will do, without fail!
Now leave them there for a couple more weeks. Observe them closely. If they perch and roost in their separate cages in such a way that they are sitting as close together as possible, then you have introduced them successfully and they have accepted each other. You can then try letting them out together - but have a towel handy so that you can break up any brawls that may occur, and remember that a Grey is SO much larger than a QP, so you must act QUICKLY!
If, on the other hand, they sit at opposite ends of their cages, trying to get as far as possible away from each other, then you will have to consider the fact that they will never get on, and you will need to modify their daily routines so that they both get quality out-of-cage time and time with you.
Working 8 hours a day is not a problem. As long as you have a daily routine and stick with it, they will be perfectly happy.
Hope that helps.
Fancy meeting you here as well as on AnAG!
First things first, though. 9 weeks is, IMHO way too young to be getting any parrot! It is essential that a young birds spends time with it nestmates, peers and parents for it to learn that it IS a bird, and NOT a human being. Taking birds from their parents so young can cause psychological problems later in life. Ideally, you should wait until at least 16 weeks, if not 20. See if you can't get the breeder to keep the youngster for longer - please: it is so very important!
In principle, there shouldn't be any problem having a QP and a Grey together. My QP, Insect, gets on fine with my 6 Greys. Well, at least, he is quick enough to be able to get away from them! But you will have to keep a close eye on them.
You will need to introduce them very carefully! Sensei (that is the name of your Grey, isn't it) is a MUCH larger bird and he has already staked his claim of your home as his territory. A small, green intruder may be seen as something that needs to be 'disposed of'.
You must get as large a cage as you possibly can for your QP. Greys are much larger than QPs, but Greys climb more than they fly. QPs, being long-tailed parrots, are great fliers. We take Insect to Parrot Society meetings in a village hall in Shirebrook, not far from us, where he gets to fly around to his heart's content. The little hooligan is like a rocket! Flying really is important for their physical and psychological welfare, so make sure you get the largest cage possible!
As soon as you have the cage, put it, in the same room as your Grey's cage. Greys are notoriously averse to change in their environment, so the sooner you can get the empty cage in there, the better, so that he can get used to it. The cage needs to be at the opposite end of the room from your Grey's cage.
When you get your QP youngster, put it in the cage and let them both observe each other for a few days. It is important that you follow your normal routine with Sensei. Over the course of a few days, you can adapt it slowly to include more and more of your QP. During this time, it is very important that you make a little extra fuss of your Grey, so that he knows that he is not being sidelined. Greys are intelligent enough to behave like jealous kids!
Leave the cages as they are for a couple of weeks, before starting to move them gradually closer and closer - and I'm talking just a couple of feet per week, here. Eventually, you should have both cages next to each other - close, buut not so close that one can stick its beak through the bars and bite the feet of the other, which they will do, without fail!
Now leave them there for a couple more weeks. Observe them closely. If they perch and roost in their separate cages in such a way that they are sitting as close together as possible, then you have introduced them successfully and they have accepted each other. You can then try letting them out together - but have a towel handy so that you can break up any brawls that may occur, and remember that a Grey is SO much larger than a QP, so you must act QUICKLY!
If, on the other hand, they sit at opposite ends of their cages, trying to get as far as possible away from each other, then you will have to consider the fact that they will never get on, and you will need to modify their daily routines so that they both get quality out-of-cage time and time with you.
Working 8 hours a day is not a problem. As long as you have a daily routine and stick with it, they will be perfectly happy.
Hope that helps.
Hiya....
yep that is I and sensei of course lol...
I am so so worried now that there not going to get on - I know somewhere that has got 13 weeks old quaker so may go for them but I will then lose my £50 deposit - there slightly cheaper though so all good..... oh decisions decisions.... I am sure they will b ok as sensei is a very friendly bird I just hope I can get a very friendly quaker... so do u think that even if they do seem to get on that I cannot ever put them in the same cage - shame if this is the case..... hmmmmm maybe I need to rethink it... but worse case I have a friend that said she will adopt him off me if they do not get on.... and she doesnt work so shehas all the time in the world to raise..
oh well we shall see....
Gonna have to think hard about it all...
xxxx
THANKS FOR ALL UR ADVICE EVERYONE... MUCH MUCH APPREICATED.... KEEP INFO COMING....XX
Just to add to above posts My agreement that quakers CAN wean at 9 weeks of age... we brought home our strapping young qp at that age and he was weaned for a week.. eatings all sorts of fresh foods and didnt shown signs of reverting to handfeeding throughout the enitre adjustment ...
That being asid I also agree quakers and larger birds should never interact.. just too much of a risk in my opinion.. you'll never be able to completely trust them together
That being asid I also agree quakers and larger birds should never interact.. just too much of a risk in my opinion.. you'll never be able to completely trust them together
Im sorry if i missed this somewhere but i didnt see anywhere that this baby was weaned or not?????
QUOTE (bird-man-iac @ Aug 19 2008, 07:32 AM)
Im sorry if i missed this somewhere but i didnt see anywhere that this baby was weaned or not?????
the baby is weaned they are weaning it at present - he is 3weeks old at mo & said I can have him from 8-9 weeks old - I myself would prefer 9weeks...
Also, I know of greys & quakers in the ame cage together - it doesn happen - I know my grey is very calm & socialable... surely any animal can turn on any other animal... u could have 2 dogs that have been together for 5years & then they have a fight.... will b a shame if I cannot put them together.... eventually...xx
xxx
I wouldn't plan on ever caging them together. It is completely different then just allowing them to socially interact outside the cage. How a bird reacts inside their cage is totally different.
I have to say that I'm disappointed that you are planning on giving your Quaker away if it doesn't get along with the Grey. I don't believe this is fair at all to the Quaker. Shuffling them around homes for no apparent reason other then to find the 'perfect' bird isn't fair at all. If you are wanting a bird to eventually cage with your Grey, then I think perhaps you may be best off not adding another bird at all.
I have to say that I'm disappointed that you are planning on giving your Quaker away if it doesn't get along with the Grey. I don't believe this is fair at all to the Quaker. Shuffling them around homes for no apparent reason other then to find the 'perfect' bird isn't fair at all. If you are wanting a bird to eventually cage with your Grey, then I think perhaps you may be best off not adding another bird at all.
QUOTE (magicalem @ Aug 19 2008, 09:38 AM)
the baby is weaned they are weaning it at present - he is 3weeks old at mo & said I can have him from 8-9 weeks old - I myself would prefer 9weeks...
Also, I know of greys & quakers in the ame cage together - it doesn happen - I know my grey is very calm & socialable... surely any animal can turn on any other animal... u could have 2 dogs that have been together for 5years & then they have a fight.... will b a shame if I cannot put them together.... eventually...xx
xxx
Also, I know of greys & quakers in the ame cage together - it doesn happen - I know my grey is very calm & socialable... surely any animal can turn on any other animal... u could have 2 dogs that have been together for 5years & then they have a fight.... will b a shame if I cannot put them together.... eventually...xx
xxx
can anyone advise me what would e a better bird to eventually be able to put them together- size wize & bird temperment wise.... I was told that quakers were prob one of the best as they are a colony bird such as greys...
QAnyone else would recommend a better species rather than a quaker to introduce & eventually if all goes well mix them together....
xx
Can I ask why you would like another bird? Are you looking for a companion for your Grey? And is there any specific reason why you want to have two birds caged together?
I agree with Carrie~Anne .. I wouldn't allow physical interaction between a quaker and a grey outside of the cage let alone share a cage. I know of some larger birds turn on smaller birds that they have interacted with for years ... Quakers are very boisterous little parrots and as docile as a grey may be they can only be pushed so far before they react. If a grey reacts to a quaker's behaviour then the quaker could easily if not likely be killed. You just never know what could trigger an action and I wouldn't take a chance with my bird's life.
As for getting a bird that could share a cage with a grey ... even if you were to get another grey there are no guarantees that they would like each other enough to be caged together. Although greys are wonderful human companions they don't necessarily get along with other birds and can pose a danger to the other birds in their environment.
In my opinion if you are looking for a companion for your existing grey then you need to stick with another grey. Having said that, there still are no guarantees that they would like each other enough to interact let alone be caged together.
Here is one of many articles that I have bookmarked ...
http://quamut.com/quamut/african_grey_parrots
As for getting a bird that could share a cage with a grey ... even if you were to get another grey there are no guarantees that they would like each other enough to be caged together. Although greys are wonderful human companions they don't necessarily get along with other birds and can pose a danger to the other birds in their environment.
In my opinion if you are looking for a companion for your existing grey then you need to stick with another grey. Having said that, there still are no guarantees that they would like each other enough to interact let alone be caged together.
Here is one of many articles that I have bookmarked ...
http://quamut.com/quamut/african_grey_parrots
Well, I went against every one here when I got my CAG and housed the two of the babies together for about a month. The QP was only with me for a month, so he hadn't become territorial yet. I ended up having to get another cage not because they didn't get along, but because the CAG(at about 15 weeks) was too spastic and knocked everything over and made a bigger mess than expected lol.
They love each other still to this day. They always hang out together and destroy stuff together lol. once or twice a week I leave them out while I'm playing games or on the computer (same room) for hours and no one gets hurt. they preen each other and play and eat with no problems. They both hate when the other leaves the room with me. If Yoshi gets a shower and Delilah doesn't she sits and screams for him till he comes back to his cage. Goes both ways. They love one another.
I think I got blessed with two loving babies!
Whatever you do, just be careful and watch how they react to each other...some times you can learn from experience but you never want things to go too wrong.
They love each other still to this day. They always hang out together and destroy stuff together lol. once or twice a week I leave them out while I'm playing games or on the computer (same room) for hours and no one gets hurt. they preen each other and play and eat with no problems. They both hate when the other leaves the room with me. If Yoshi gets a shower and Delilah doesn't she sits and screams for him till he comes back to his cage. Goes both ways. They love one another.
I think I got blessed with two loving babies!
Whatever you do, just be careful and watch how they react to each other...some times you can learn from experience but you never want things to go too wrong.
Like I mentioned before .. I know of a few situations where two birds one being a grey were together constantly for years .. One day after years of being together the grey snapped at the quaker and killed him .. Sorry if that is blunt but that is what happened ...
Even with years of interacting on a great level .. on occasion a bird will bite and we don't necessarily know what triggers it. Something as simply as a noise could trigger the larger bird to bite whatever is closest to them. How many times have we been bitten by our birds unexpectedly and can't seem to put a finger on why they decided to bite?
If that happens and the target is a smaller bird then the smaller bird could be severely injured if not worse.
Just not worth the chance in my opinion .. Ok putting the soapbox away ..
Even with years of interacting on a great level .. on occasion a bird will bite and we don't necessarily know what triggers it. Something as simply as a noise could trigger the larger bird to bite whatever is closest to them. How many times have we been bitten by our birds unexpectedly and can't seem to put a finger on why they decided to bite?
If that happens and the target is a smaller bird then the smaller bird could be severely injured if not worse.
Just not worth the chance in my opinion .. Ok putting the soapbox away ..
Just to add onto what Dee said, even the most bonded breeding pairs will bite one another. For the most part, it isn't a big deal because they are the same size. But when taking into account the difference between a Quaker and a Grey, the warning bite of a Grey would be enough to seriously injure, or kill, the Quaker.
Hi
I have a QP, Wubbie and I have a baby TAG, Tango, 6 weeks old at the breeder....I go and visit him at leat 4 times a week and plan to do so 'til he is ready to come home...long time ...sometime in October,hopefully!!
I will have both in separate cages, NO question!!!!!!..not a a chance they will be together...at one point I will like them to be in he same room so they can "chat"
..but not right away.
Dee: thanks for the web site reg. African Greys...I enjoyed it!!!!.
Good luck with you decision, Magicalem!!!! Please, let us know!!!
KatieCakes: you are lucky!!!! I hope my boys get along!!!
I have a QP, Wubbie and I have a baby TAG, Tango, 6 weeks old at the breeder....I go and visit him at leat 4 times a week and plan to do so 'til he is ready to come home...long time ...sometime in October,hopefully!!
I will have both in separate cages, NO question!!!!!!..not a a chance they will be together...at one point I will like them to be in he same room so they can "chat"
..but not right away.Dee: thanks for the web site reg. African Greys...I enjoyed it!!!!.
Good luck with you decision, Magicalem!!!! Please, let us know!!!
KatieCakes: you are lucky!!!! I hope my boys get along!!!
wow, obviously Quakers are weaned way before 20 weeks. I got my quaker at 6 weeks old, weaned. just fine. extremely social bird, who speaks, and seriously never bites.
Opinions are worth what they cost. $0, so here's mine to go along with the others.
I'd never ever have 2 birds of such different sizes together at ANY time. I CARE too much if one gets hurt or dies as a result. That would just kill me. I wouldn't have it happen for a flat million dollars.
There's a big difference in birds and a HUGE difference in people. I am one of those people who thinks of any animal I get as my baby and it would leave a serious hole in my heart if one got hurt or killed because I had to house them together. I'd feel like I just sacrificed the life of one of my babies, so I just DON'T take chances of ANY kind.
Also: by Carrie Anne
Poor little bird... "I have a home, I don't have a home" "WOW! Somebody loves me, this is going to be fun...OOPS, no they don't, I'm outta here and with strangers again. Where will I go from here? "
ALSO: If you are getting a QP as a companion for your Grey, I'd say just DON'T. If you are getting it for yourself, you need time to give each of them the time THEY need to be shown they are loved.
Only YOU know if you can house them seperately and give each one the time it will need for the next 30 years or so. If I had a single thought that I couldn't do that, I wouldn't bother with another bird. I hope your Grey gets a enough time out of the cage for human companionship.
YES, QPs make colonies, but only with other QPs, NOT with bigger birds.
Hawks, Kestrils and Owls EAT QPs for lunch! Sad but true.
No one is trying to be ugly here, it's just that for us, it's not about US, it's all about the love, comfort and SAFETY of our birds. We protect them as if they are newborn babes!
I'd never ever have 2 birds of such different sizes together at ANY time. I CARE too much if one gets hurt or dies as a result. That would just kill me. I wouldn't have it happen for a flat million dollars.
There's a big difference in birds and a HUGE difference in people. I am one of those people who thinks of any animal I get as my baby and it would leave a serious hole in my heart if one got hurt or killed because I had to house them together. I'd feel like I just sacrificed the life of one of my babies, so I just DON'T take chances of ANY kind.
Also: by Carrie Anne
QUOTE
I have to say that I'm disappointed that you are planning on giving your Quaker away if it doesn't get along with the Grey. I don't believe this is fair at all to the Quaker. Shuffling them around homes for no apparent reason other then to find the 'perfect' bird isn't fair at all. If you are wanting a bird to eventually cage with your Grey, then I think perhaps you may be best off not adding another bird at all.
Poor little bird... "I have a home, I don't have a home" "WOW! Somebody loves me, this is going to be fun...OOPS, no they don't, I'm outta here and with strangers again. Where will I go from here?
"ALSO: If you are getting a QP as a companion for your Grey, I'd say just DON'T. If you are getting it for yourself, you need time to give each of them the time THEY need to be shown they are loved.
Only YOU know if you can house them seperately and give each one the time it will need for the next 30 years or so. If I had a single thought that I couldn't do that, I wouldn't bother with another bird. I hope your Grey gets a enough time out of the cage for human companionship.
YES, QPs make colonies, but only with other QPs, NOT with bigger birds.
Hawks, Kestrils and Owls EAT QPs for lunch! Sad but true.
No one is trying to be ugly here, it's just that for us, it's not about US, it's all about the love, comfort and SAFETY of our birds. We protect them as if they are newborn babes!
Well I will ad my 2 cents worth here also. I brought my quaker home @ 9 weeks of age. I had to feed him cream of wheat and what not for about 3 to 4 weeks until he started really eating (pellets) on his own.
As far as the Grey and the Quaker getting along, I personally wouldn't chance it, not even for a second. I have my quaker and when I bought my quaker I already had a cockateil. It was clear from the beginning that they were NOT going to get along. After my cockteil died, I bought a green cheek conure and my conure and my quaker DO NOT get a long AT ALL. I definitely would go with the advice the others have given you. I was particularly upset when I read that you were buying a quaker and then if it didn't get along with your Grey that you had somebody to give it to. I have owned my quaker for over 8 years........I did NO research before buying a quaker, but inspite of everything I DID NOT know, I would NOT for any money or ANYTHING give my bird up. He deserves more then that, then being tossed around from home to home. That is my opinion! If you are going to buy ANY BIRD, make sure that you are going to own, or they are going to own you for a LIFETIME!!!!!!!!! Sorry if this is harsh.........
As far as the Grey and the Quaker getting along, I personally wouldn't chance it, not even for a second. I have my quaker and when I bought my quaker I already had a cockateil. It was clear from the beginning that they were NOT going to get along. After my cockteil died, I bought a green cheek conure and my conure and my quaker DO NOT get a long AT ALL. I definitely would go with the advice the others have given you. I was particularly upset when I read that you were buying a quaker and then if it didn't get along with your Grey that you had somebody to give it to. I have owned my quaker for over 8 years........I did NO research before buying a quaker, but inspite of everything I DID NOT know, I would NOT for any money or ANYTHING give my bird up. He deserves more then that, then being tossed around from home to home. That is my opinion! If you are going to buy ANY BIRD, make sure that you are going to own, or they are going to own you for a LIFETIME!!!!!!!!! Sorry if this is harsh.........
I am coming on to this post a little late but I just couldn't stay quiet when I saw you were going to give your baby away if it didn't get along. That is just TERRIBLE!!! That is like adopting a 2 year old and when it didn't get on with your current child then giving it to your friend instead. Just horrid! If that is going to be your plan going in then do the poor Quaker a favor and DON'T BUY IT!!!!!
Regarding getting another bird, if you plan on getting another bird pick one you want for the next 10-80 years and plan to have it for every moment of that time. PLAN on the birds NOT getting along because chances are good that they probably won't, and if you can't handle that thought then you need to do some serious thinking on getting another.
Sorry if I seem mean but THIS IS A LIVE ANIMAL not a trinket or toy that can be tossed if it doesn't meet up to expectations and it just horrifies me that anyone would bring a bird into their home with the mind set of 'if it doesn't work I can send it away'...
Regarding getting another bird, if you plan on getting another bird pick one you want for the next 10-80 years and plan to have it for every moment of that time. PLAN on the birds NOT getting along because chances are good that they probably won't, and if you can't handle that thought then you need to do some serious thinking on getting another.
Sorry if I seem mean but THIS IS A LIVE ANIMAL not a trinket or toy that can be tossed if it doesn't meet up to expectations and it just horrifies me that anyone would bring a bird into their home with the mind set of 'if it doesn't work I can send it away'...
Excellent Post folks I completely agree
I completely agree
I found this thread late also. To me buying a bird as a companion for another bird is like having a second child just to keep the one first company. You have to really want the second one because it is going to be around for a long time. There is a post in the quaker parrot diet and health section that you might want to look at. It is titled "Devestating Injury To My Lil' Buddy..., I need your prayers...." I hope the link works... http://www.quakerparrots.com/forum/index.p...st&p=457781
Just something else to think about.
Just something else to think about.
well thanks so so much for the advice but I am getting one in3/4weeks fingers x that they will get on but I obv cannot put them in the same cage - I am getting new cage tonight so mygrey can get used to it - really hope they get on - just so they can have each other throughout theday when I am atwork.... they will still be able to chat & entertain each other through cages....
all advice given is very appreciated & welcomed... neverhad enough advice...
xxx
all advice given is very appreciated & welcomed... neverhad enough advice...
xxx
your welcome.. for the quakers sake hopefully it all workds out and you'll have two super happy fids !
!
Me too. You could always do research if you would like a more compatine friend for your CAG too. That way you know if things would work out ahead of time. And you can avoid the bloodshed and heartache.
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