OH BABY!
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As discussed in depth on the species page, the Monk, or Quaker Parrot, does, in fact, quake.
Pulling their head and necks back, the young baby Quakers appear to have some type of Palsy or
tremors. Perhaps this is where the name was actually derived, perhaps not. Theory has it that
the quaking behavior is a signal to the young birds parents that the baby is hungry and still young enough
to remain in the nest, to human bird parents it is a sign that the bird is still
young and immpressionable! This is a great time to bond with your new baby and use good preventative
behavior enhancing techniques on your parrot before problem behaviors arise.
Young Quakers, as almost all parrots, are not born with an attitude. Lack of handling, traumatic early events, illness, and poor patterning all lend to the creation of an attitude largely disproportionate to the size of the Lil Green Chicken. (LGC) Even the most well intending birdie parent sometimes makes a mistake or two along the way. This is to be expected. There are no guarantees that following all the experts advice will land you with a sweet, cuddly, affectionate companion. No parrot is all of the above 100% of the time. However, if the foundation for the birds future behavior is well structured and reinforced, you will have something with which to build upon, and depend on, in the future, if problems arise. Young Quakers must be taught to "Step up!" . This is the basis on which all future learning depends. Quakers have a tendency to develop an over attachment to one particular individual, and practicing the "Step up" command allows all the members of your household, as well as frequent visitors, the opportunity to interact with the baby parrot while teaching it something. Simply put, human is boss. In order for this message to be effective, all people allowed to interact with your parrot must have a basic understanding of the verbal and physical commands used to prompt the bird, so that all training is consistent. An excellent book to read regarding this, and other early patterning issues, is listed on the Good Reading page. |
Just as with any other young animal, including us "Human Beans", you should expect your baby Quaker
to require a great deal of rest, to eat and drink frequently, and to have its, ummmm...moments.
Expecting perfection will only lead to disappointment for you and your LGC. The most common behavioral problems, both
biting and aggression, can most likely be avoided (with the exception of Sexual Aggression) by correct handling at this point.
By devoting a great deal of time and attention to your new bird, you will be teaching the Quaker to be emotionally dependant on
their human flockmates for gratification and praise. This praise
will be held in the highest regard by your parrot.
Quakers truly enjoy soothing, cooing, tones like, "Goooood Bird", and "Pretty Baaaaby". These phrases uttered before each time you
command your bird to "Step Up!", and each time they complete an acceptable behavior, such as playing with an approved toy or eating,
will encourage the correct behavior in your Quaker and will often put the bird in the "right frame of mind", when it may
just as easily been "wrong".
All birds have an inherent instinct that teaches them to climb to the highest available point. There is not much we can do about instinct, except repress the instinct
to climb from our hand to our
shoulder. If we hold the bird on our hand with our arm bent, elbow pointing at the floor, rather
than creating a ramp out of our arm, the posture will force your Quaker to climb down your arm
to reach your shoulder, thereby defying instinct. Why does this matter? In a birds social "pecking order", height is
completely relative to status. When an aggressive or overtly sexual parrot has free access
to the human shoulder, thereby greeting you at eye height, the bird has equal or greater status or
perceived authority over you. This is a recipe for disaster in the form of biting, wing bashing,
and, well, pain or injury. Only a well socialized, dependable parrot should be allowed free access
to your shoulder.
Which brings us to another topic, transportation dependance.
Another important thing to check when purchasing your
Quaker is its wing trim
. Quakers are excellent flyers, there are definite health hazards
associated with untrimmed wings, and there are also probable behavioral complications. A companion parrot
that is able to fly freely from place to place is not dependent on humans for its transportation and
is therefore more self-sufficient, willful, and downright stubborn. There are some critics out there
who may say that wing trimming is cruel or unnatural, however, just like seed vs. pellet, I feel
that the benefits of a good wing trim far outweigh any associated risks. Wing trimming, when performed correctly by
a knowledgable bird dealer or avian vet, is not at all painful. To trim the birds wings is to cut away 7 to 10 of
the birds flight feathers back to within 1/4" of the primary feathers, thereby enabling the bird
to coast to the floor, but not gain altitude and escape. The extent to which the birds wings must be trimmed depends upon
the flying ability of your Quaker and may have to be adjusted. However, do not leave the breeder or
pet store with an untrimmed bird. You will be sorry. Also, it is important to know, birds have something called
blood feathers. Do not attempt to trim your birds wings yourself if you are not aware of what this means and have experience.
Usually most avian shops and all avian vets can perform this service for you while you observe until you feel confident. Some people never
feel confident grooming their companion birds, and if not, thats o.k. too! Just make a standing
appointment with a skilled and recommended groomer.
In order to be truly happy, Quakers require multiple "foraging" areas in their homes. A birds natural
instinct is to search out food in many different areas. Providing a T-Perch or Playgym in two or more
rooms of your home will allow your Quaker more freedom and time with the family. It is possible to build
quite an elaborate version of the commercially available varieties at a fraction of the cost, check out
the Quaker Parakeet Mailing List for more details!
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Young Quakers sleep
in a nest. By the time you bring your Quaker home, he or she may or may not
be perching at night. Until you know for sure, you should provide a sleeping place on the floor of your parrots cage. An empty kleenex box
will do just fine. If you are going to try a Happy Hut or some other birdie swing, now
is a great time to introduce it. I have found that younger birds adapt more quickly to these commercial
beds. Before introducing any cloth or woven material to your parrots environment, make sure you check their toenails length.
Many Quakers have been injured or died from an ensnared nail.
Quakers are excellent talkers,
this fact is undisputed. Since birds do not have vocal chords, they must learn to speak by
working the muscles in their throats to control the movement of air. This is quite a trick. Most
baby Quakers can be heard softly, sometimes loudly, practicing their repertoires of human noises long
before the words themselves become clearly distinguishable. Do not discourage your bird from making these
strange noises, they are a means to an end, after all. Speak clearly and frequently to your bird, and to the other
people and animals in your household. Communication is a social activity for parrots and they will
learn what they live, so be careful! Your bird will love to recite anything
you say with great emotion...It is not necessary, and probably ineffective, to play loop tapes
to your Quaker. Parrots talk in an attempt to mimic you, their flockmate. If you want to establish
communication with your bird, imitate him. When he makes a sound that you are
able to duplicate, make eye contact and do it!!! In this manner you will show your bird
that you are truly soulmates, and you will have bridged a major communication gap.
There are many more ways to establish a relationship with your parrot than through
physical contact. Quakers love to play amusing little
games that provide great opportunity to bond with your parrot.
Mattie Sue Athans' book, Guide To The Well Behaved Parrot, goes into great detail about several of these games. Although I would have
to disagree with some of Ms.Athans methods of reprimand, over-all this book is an excellent reference.
![]() Devil in Training! All in all, any Quaker has great potential. Whether that potential is for Devil In Training or Angel In Disguise is up somewhat to genetics, and mostly, to YOU!!! Quakers, like any parrot, are highly intelligent creatures. They require a tremendous amount of attention and stimulus in order to avoid boredom and aggression. It is recommended that for a Quaker to remain healthy and adjusted they must be offered a minimum of six indestructible, bird safe toys, and at least two new, indestructible, bird safe toys should be introduced monthly. Toys can also be rotated to avoid boredom. Just because your Quaker is not interested in a particular toy now does not mean that toy will not be the favorite next month! CLICK HERE for a list of favorite Quaker toys. |
©Material contained in Quaker Quarters Copyright Kyra Brown 1998