Recommended minimum cage dimensions for a single Quaker Parrot are 18x18x24. The bars should be either 1/2" to 5/8" spacing, too large and the clever little Quaker will escape, too thin and they will destroy them. Any cage bar spacing that allows the parrot to put their head through the bars is an extreme hazard that could result in strangulation. Pay close attention to the design of the cage as well. Quakers are not good housekeepers and you will be quickly discouraged if the cage does not have a removable bottom tray seperated from the parrot by a removable grate. The doors may seem secure now, but they will not be when Houdini catches on, so make sure that there is a way to secure some other type of bird safe fastener of your own. Quakers do like to spend time on top of their cages, and there has been some evidence that this extra time walking flat footed is good for them, so I would highly recommend cages with a flat top.

Further more, although round cages are very aesthetically pleasing (pretty), they were not really designed with the bird in mind. Your cage should offer both horizontal and vertical bars to facilitate climbing, a feature rarely seen in round cages. Round cages also boast no retreat area and are not favored by any bird because of this. Since it is more important to have width than height, a rectangular cage is the best choice.

Many cages include a cage top "playgym" or open to a cage top perch, and your Quaker will certainly appreciate these added luxuries as he matures. I've never seen a cage come perchless, but the quality of the perches is usually questionable. A perch should be a natural looking tree branch (manzanita) of varying diameters so that your Quaker is enabled to flex the tendons of the feet regularly when moving back and forth across the perch. Can you imagine closing your fist around a pencil and holding on for the next 25 years? Not a healthy proposition. There is more information about perches on the Health Page of this site.

As I mentioned already, aluminum dishes are not acceptable. There are all sorts of stainless steel and plastic dishes out there that make great alternatives. There are plastic dishes that screw onto the sides with a plastic bolt and these make excellent water dishes because they don't get overturned during birdie baths!

A birds natural instincts force him to climb to the highest point, so, generally speaking, your parrot will not utilize the floor of his cage. Do not consider this space when planning out your Quakers environment.

Quakers in the wild, feral quakers, sleep in colony type nests. Companion Quakers will perch at night, on one foot, but I think it is more natural for them to have a birdie bed. There are some out there called Happy Huts, some rope ring types, and a less expensive homemade variety that you may be able to find out about on the Quaker parakeet mailing list. Not all Quakers take to these however, so if your bird prefers to sleep perching , let them. It really is their preference that matters.

Also remember, although the cage must be designed and planned to be a stimulating, spacious, and safe place for your Quaker to sleep and rest, to obtain maximum behavioral benefits and enjoyment of your bird, you will also need to have a seperate playgym, tree, or stand for your Quaker to spend a great deal of time every day.

In summary, buy a moderately to large sized 1/2" barred, well constructed cage that will be easy to disassemble, clean, and disinfect weekly, with daily cleaning of the removable tray bottom, and you and your Quaker will both be healthier and happier.